Owari-Ichinomiya Ocha no Fukujuen (尾張一宮 お茶の福壽園).

Ocha no Fukujuen stands at 4-22-2 Honmachi, ten minutes on foot from JR Owari-Ichinomiya station, on the plot where the founder, Otsuka Kinjiro, rebuilt the family shop after the wartime air raid with second-hand timber carted from Nagoya. Before the war it was a general store that delivered sun-dried bancha from the Ibi hills to textile firms and temples; from the 1950s it became a tea shop. His son took over in 1965, and the grandson, Otsuka Noboru, joined in 1997 and built the online shop himself in 2003. It opens 9:00 to 17:30 and closes on Sundays.

The shop's speciality is the tea of Mino Shirakawa, grown on steep gardens along the Hida river in eastern Gifu, where morning mist and a wide swing between day and night temperatures give a dark leaf with high aroma. The owner holds the sixth dan in tea appraisal, the grade awarded at the national tasting competition, and blends the Shirakawa senchas himself in two grades. Beside them sit a cheaper Ibi sencha, a shaded Uji kabusecha and the Ichinomiya Blend: Gifu, Shizuoka and Kagoshima leaf mixed one to three to eight, after the city's nickname, 138.

The other half of the counter is matcha, because the Owari region around Nagoya has long served it to guests as a matter of course. The house has blended its own Uji matcha since it opened, in five grades from Konomimukashi, thick enough for koicha, down to Betsugi, in 20 g and 40 g bags. Around them sit a light-roasted hojicha of Gifu sencha, which the shop names as its best seller, a deep-roasted stem tea called Bishu bocha, genmaicha, and a Gifu black tea made almost to order by one grower in Ikeda. The shop sells only leaf from the tea plant, no herbal blends.